Why labels are worth reading
An ingredient list tells you what is in a product, roughly how much of each, and sometimes what may not suit your skin. If you have allergies or reactive skin, it is one of the most useful tools you have. It also helps if you make your own products, because understanding how commercial labels are written makes it easier to compare, to label your own, and to learn from others’ formulas.
Labels are not a perfect guide. They do not tell you how well a product is made, whether it is gentle, or whether the claims on the front are reasonable. They are simply a list.
How lists are usually ordered
In many places, ingredients are listed in descending order by amount, from most to least. The first few ingredients usually make up most of the product. There is a common exception: ingredients present at low levels, often around one percent or less, may be listed in any order after that point. Because of this, you cannot rely on the order of the tail of a list to say which is more abundant. The exact rules vary by country, so use this as a general guide.
A practical consequence: if a product boasts about a special botanical but it appears near the end of a long list, it is likely present in a small amount.
Common naming conventions
International standard names
Many countries use a standard naming system for cosmetics, often called INCI. It means the same ingredient has the same name on labels in different places. Some examples of how this looks:
- Aqua means water.
- Glycerin is a moisturizing ingredient also formed naturally in soap making.
- Cocos Nucifera Oil is coconut oil, and the Latin name shows up for many plants.
- Olea Europaea Fruit Oil is olive oil.
- Butyrospermum Parkii Butter is shea butter.
- Parfum means fragrance.
- Tocopherol is vitamin E.
Latin names can look intimidating, but you will soon recognize common ones. Labels also often follow the genus and species of the plant. Some labels print the everyday name in brackets.
Soap labels
Soap has a few quirks. A soap made by combining oils with lye does not contain the original oils in the same form, because they are chemically changed by saponification. As a result, some labels list the soap as the salts of fatty acids, such as Sodium Cocoate (from coconut oil) or Sodium Olivate (from olive oil), and others list the oils with a note such as “saponified”. You may also see “Sodium Hydroxide” listed, even though it reacts and is not present in meaningful form in properly made soap, because some regions have rules that name it. Both approaches are used, and the right form depends on local rules.
Extra oil left unreacted, called the superfat, is an example of why you may see both the oil name and the soap name. The article on soap superfatting covers that in more detail. Soap labels for hobby makers are covered in the article on soap labels, and the fine print varies by region, so check local requirements.
Fragrance and flavor
“Fragrance” or “Parfum” is an umbrella term, and a single word can stand for a blend of many components. This is why it matters for people who react to scent. Essential oils may be listed by the plant’s Latin name, and some regions require declaring certain fragrance components that are known allergens. If you have fragrance sensitivity, choosing products labeled fragrance-free, and checking the list for essential oils too, is a sensible approach. Note that “unscented” may sometimes mean masking fragrance has been added, so the list matters more than the claim.
Colorants
Colorants may be listed by name or by a number system. Natural colorants such as clays and plant powders appear by their plant or mineral names.
Preservatives
Preservatives are listed by chemical name, and the names are often long. Seeing one on a lotion’s list is a good sign that the product has protection, not a warning. Products that contain water without any recognizable preservative deserve caution. See the preservatives article for more.
Spotting things that matter to you
If you react to something, write the names down, including alternative names. For example, if nuts concern you, you may need to look for different oils and butters, while bee product allergies call for beeswax, honey and propolis. Keep a note of the exact names in your product journal so you can check new items quickly.
Make a habit of checking:
- the first five or so ingredients
- any fragrance or essential oil
- anything you know you react to
- whether the product contains water (Aqua) and, if so, whether there is a preservative
- the date or batch info, if given
What a label cannot tell you
- Quality or purity. Two products with identical lists can differ.
- Concentration. Order hints at amounts but not exact percentages.
- Safety for you. A list of gentle-sounding ingredients may still contain something your skin dislikes. A patch test remains a sensible step.
- Marketing claims. “Natural,” “clean” and “chemical free” have no universal meaning. Everything, including water, is a chemical. Read the list, not the front of the package.
- Effectiveness. A long list of plant extracts does not mean a product will do what the advertising suggests.
The idea of natural versus synthetic is covered more in natural skincare ingredients.
If you make your own
Writing an accurate list for your own products helps you, family members and anyone you share with. List every ingredient, including colorants and scent, in descending order, using clear names. Note common allergens. For gifts, a short label with the product name, ingredients, date made and a use-by suggestion is both helpful and considerate.
Rules about what must appear on a label for products you sell are specific to your location, so check them before you sell anything.