Why lips chap so easily
Lip skin is thin and has no oil glands of its own, so it dries out much more easily than the rest of the face. Cold air, wind, dry indoor heat, sun, licking, mouth breathing and some products can all contribute. As the surface dries it flakes, and the flakes can look and feel rough. The usual instinct is to scrub them off, but removing flakes is only useful if the lips are not already sore, and the cause of the dryness still has to be addressed.
What a lip scrub is
A lip scrub is a small amount of fine abrasive particles held in a softening base, usually an oil or a thick butter. You rub it very gently over the lips for a few seconds, wipe or rinse it off, and follow with balm. Its job is to loosen loose, dry flakes so lips feel smoother and balm sits better.
Common simple versions include:
- Fine sugar mixed with a plant oil. Sugar dissolves with water, so it tends to be gentler than harder particles. Finer sugar is generally preferred to coarse sugar crystals.
- Sugar with a little honey. Honey is sticky, so some people like it as a binder, though it is a common allergen for some people and should be avoided if you know you react to it or to bee products. Babies under one year should not be given honey, so keep it away from children’s lips.
Avoid coarse salt, crushed nut shells, large grains and anything sharp. On lips these can cause tiny tears. The same caution applies to natural exfoliants for the face and body generally: smaller and softer is better, and lips are even more delicate than cheeks.
How to use one
- Start with clean, slightly damp lips.
- Take a tiny amount, about a pea or less, and rub gently with a fingertip in small circles for no more than 10 to 15 seconds.
- Wipe away with a damp cloth.
- Immediately apply a balm.
If you feel any stinging, or the lips look red afterward, you have done too much. Once or twice a week is typical for most people, and less often if you are prone to irritation. Many people with badly cracked or bleeding lips skip scrubbing entirely until healing begins, and use only balm.
Alternatives to scrubbing
If lips are sore, a gentler method often works better: warm a soft damp cloth and lay it against the lips for a minute, then dab or very lightly wipe off loosened flakes, then apply balm. A soft toothbrush is sometimes suggested online, but it can easily be too harsh, so skip it on cracked lips.
Picking or peeling flakes with fingers often makes things worse. It can pull away live skin and cause bleeding. Leave them and let moisture soften them instead.
Overnight lip care
Overnight is a good time for lip care because you are not eating, drinking or licking your lips for several hours. A thick layer of balm can stay in place and slow water loss while you sleep.
- Use a rich, simple balm. A water-free balm made with waxes, oils and butters is ideal. How a basic lip balm is put together is explained in the homemade lip balm article.
- Apply it just before bed in a slightly thicker layer than you would during the day.
- A little extra attention to the corners of the mouth helps if they tend to crack.
- Dry bedroom air makes a difference, so a humidifier helps some people, if kept clean.
- Drink water through the day. Hydration is not a cure for chapped lips, but it does not hurt.
Some products marketed as “lip masks” are simply thicker balms. A homemade one is often just extra butter and wax in the recipe, and results vary.
Ingredients to be careful with
- Essential oils and flavors. Peppermint, cinnamon and citrus are common in lip products and are also frequent irritants. Cinnamon in particular can make lips sting. If you add any, essential oil dilution matters, so keep amounts very low, or leave out scent completely. Citrus oils may also increase sun sensitivity, and the page on photosensitizing oils explains why.
- Fragrance generally. Lips often react to fragrance, and fragrance sensitivity is easy to overlook as the cause of repeated chapping.
- Nut oils and honey. Fine for most, but avoid if you have allergies.
- Eating or swallowing. Anything on your lips ends up partly in your mouth, so use only ingredients suited to this.
Patch test any new scrub or balm on a small patch of skin first, such as the inside of the wrist, before putting it on your lips.
Keeping a scrub safe
A scrub made with oil and sugar contains no water, but it can still spoil, and moisture from fingers or a damp spoon can introduce mold. Make small batches, use a clean dry spoon rather than your fingers to scoop, keep the lid tight, and discard it if it smells off, shows spots or has changed color. A small jar, kept for a couple of weeks at most unless you know your oils are quite stable, is reasonable.
When to see a professional
Chapped lips can be a symptom of something else, including allergy to a toothpaste or lip product, a lack of certain nutrients, a fungal infection, or sun damage. See a doctor or dentist if lips are persistently cracked despite good care, if corners of the mouth have sores, or if you notice a patch that does not heal, thickens or bleeds. A scrub or balm should never be used in place of a diagnosis.