Two parts to care for
A beard is hair, and under it is facial skin. Good beard care looks after both. Hair can feel coarse, dry and unruly, while the skin below can become itchy, flaky or irritated, especially when a beard is new and growing in. Most natural beard products aim to soften the hair, tame stray strands and keep the skin from drying out.
What beard oil is
Beard oil is a blend of oils, applied by the drop. The base is almost always one or more carrier oils, which are plain plant oils. Typical choices include jojoba, argan, sweet almond, grapeseed, sunflower and fractionated coconut. Each feels a little different:
- Lighter oils absorb faster and feel less greasy, which many people prefer for short beards.
- Richer oils feel more cushioning and may suit long, coarse or dry beards.
- Nut-based oils such as sweet almond are best avoided by anyone with a nut allergy.
Jojoba is technically a liquid wax rather than a true oil, and it is often chosen partly because it is fairly stable. Many people also like it because it resembles the skin’s own oils somewhat, though how well that matters in practice varies. A single plain oil used on its own is a perfectly good beard oil.
Scent and essential oils
Many commercial-style blends add essential oils for fragrance, but they are optional. Beard skin is facial skin, which is thinner and more reactive than skin on the arms, and your nose is right next to the product all day. If you add scent:
- Keep it low. Essential oil dilution for the face is normally much lower than for body use, so follow a reliable dilution guide rather than guessing.
- Avoid citrus oils that can make skin more reactive to sunlight if you spend time outdoors.
- Be careful around pregnant partners, young children and pets, who may be more sensitive to strong scents.
- Do a patch test on a small area first.
Leaving a beard oil unscented is also a perfectly reasonable choice, especially if your skin tends toward sensitivity.
What beard balm is
Beard balm is thicker. It combines carrier oils with a butter, such as shea or cocoa butter, and often a wax, such as beeswax, which gives a bit of hold. The balm melts on warm fingers and works through the beard.
- Butters add richness and softness.
- Wax adds light hold, helping shape the beard and tame flyaways, and also makes the product firmer in the tin.
- Oils keep it spreadable.
Because it holds a little, balm is often preferred for longer beards or for shaping a neckline of stray hairs. Oil is often preferred for conditioning and for short stubble. Many people use oil on a daily basis and balm when they want a little control.
How to use them
- Wash the beard with a mild cleanser. Strong, stripping washes can leave the beard feeling dry, which oil then has to compensate for. A gentler routine may mean you need less product overall.
- Pat the beard mostly dry. Products spread more easily on slightly damp hair, and the skin underneath is easier to reach.
- Start with very little: a few drops of oil or a pea-sized amount of balm, warmed between your palms.
- Work it through from the roots outward, making sure some reaches the skin, then comb or brush through.
Too much product makes a beard look heavy and can collect dust or leave marks on collars and pillows. It is easier to add more than to remove it.
Itch and flaking
New beards are often itchy. Sometimes it is simple dryness and the short, stiff hair tips pressing on the skin. A gentle cleanser and a little oil may help. But flaking and itching can have other causes, including sensitivity to an ingredient, folliculitis, or a skin condition such as dermatitis. If the skin is red, sore, bumpy or persistently flaky, stop adding products and ask a doctor or dermatologist rather than layering on more oils. Ingrown hairs and skin irritation around the edges are covered in the notes on razor burn and shaving care for people who shape their beard lines.
Making or choosing your own
If you make beard oil at home, it is a very forgiving project because it contains no water. Oils and butters can still go rancid, so use fresh ingredients, store in a clean dark bottle, and note the date. Oil shelf life varies by oil, and more delicate oils generally go off sooner. Clean containers and tools are important, as is sanitizing equipment so you do not introduce moisture or contamination. Skip water-based ingredients entirely unless you understand preservatives.
When looking at any product’s ingredient lists, check for things you know you react to, such as nut oils or strong fragrance.
Keeping expectations realistic
Beard oil and balm can make hair feel softer and look tidier. They cannot make a beard grow faster, thicker or fill in patches, and anything claiming so should be treated skeptically. Genetics and hormones largely decide how a beard grows. Natural products are best seen as simple grooming aids: modest, pleasant and easy to adjust to your own preferences.