How to read this review
This is a field guide to ingredients that show up again and again in handmade and natural skincare. For each, you will find what it is generally used for and a note of caution where one is useful. It describes typical uses, not guaranteed results, and responses differ from person to person. Nothing here is medical advice.
If you are new to the subject, keep in mind that plant-based ingredients are not automatically gentle. Allergies to nuts, botanicals and fragrances are real, so patch test anything new.
Plant oils
Plant oils are mostly used to soften skin and to carry other ingredients.
- Jojoba oil. Technically a liquid wax rather than a true oil, it is generally regarded as light and is stable for a long time compared with many oils. Often used in face products.
- Sweet almond oil. A mild, general-purpose oil used in massage and body products. Avoid it if you have a nut allergy.
- Sunflower oil. Light and widely available, used in a range of products. Freshness matters, as with all oils.
- Olive oil. A familiar, rich oil. Beyond skincare, its role in making soap is well known, and olive oil soap is a topic of its own. On skin, some people find it heavy.
- Coconut oil. Solid in cool rooms and melts on contact with skin. Common in soap, and the benefits of coconut oil are widely discussed. Some people find it clogs their face or feels drying in cleansers, so judge by your own skin.
- Castor oil. Thick and sticky, used mainly in balms and glossy lip products, and in soap for lather.
- Argan, rosehip and similar specialty oils. Often sold as premium face oils. They are generally used as emollients, and quality varies. Many of the large claims made about them are not well documented, so treat them as pleasant oils rather than miracle products.
Oils can go rancid. The guidance on oil shelf life is helpful, because a rancid oil smells sharp or stale and is best discarded.
Butters and waxes
Butters are solid at room temperature and are used for richness and protection.
- Shea butter. Rich and widely used in body butters, balms and soap. The benefits of using shea butter in soap are covered elsewhere. Shea is derived from a tree nut, so people with tree nut allergies should be cautious and check with a professional.
- Cocoa butter. Firm and brittle, with a chocolate-like scent. Often used in solid bars.
- Mango butter. Softer than cocoa butter and often described as less greasy.
- Beeswax. Used to firm up balms and lip products and to form a protective layer. It is an animal product, so it will not suit everyone’s preferences.
Botanicals and kitchen ingredients
- Oats. Finely ground oats are a classic gentle ingredient for cleansing and soothing products. Honey and oatmeal as soap additives are another common pairing. Oat allergies are uncommon but possible.
- Honey. A humectant that attracts water, and commonly added to masks and cleansers. Avoid if you are allergic to bee products.
- Aloe vera. A watery gel used for cooling and light hydration. Some people react to it, and gels bought ready-made may include other ingredients, so check the label.
- Chamomile and calendula. Flowers commonly steeped in oils or water for a gentle, soothing feel. People allergic to daisy-family plants, such as ragweed, may react to them.
- Green tea and similar herbs. Often added to toners and rinses. Their effects on skin from homemade preparations are modest and not well documented.
- Clays. Soft minerals such as kaolin are used in masks and in soap to absorb oil and add color. Some people find stronger clays drying. Using clays in soap is its own subject.
- Lemon and other citrus. Often seen in recipes but can irritate and may increase sun reactivity, and lemon juice is acidic enough to be a poor choice for direct use on skin.
Essential oils
Essential oils are plant extracts used mainly for scent and are potent. They need dilution and caution, particularly for children, in pregnancy and around pets. They deserve their own full treatment rather than a brief list entry here.
What the evidence does and does not say
Much of what is said about plant ingredients is traditional or anecdotal. Some have been studied, and for a few (like oats for dry skin) there is reasonable support for modest benefits. For many others, evidence is limited, mixed or based on lab studies that do not necessarily apply to everyday use. A realistic stance is to enjoy these ingredients for their feel, scent and tradition, while not expecting dramatic results. A discussion of how skin works and where the evidence is strong appears in the review of the skin barrier.
Choosing and using ingredients wisely
- Start simple. A product with a few ingredients is easier to understand and to troubleshoot.
- Know your allergies, and read ingredient lists carefully, including for botanical names.
- Match texture to skin. Light oils for oilier skin, richer butters for dry areas.
- Buy small quantities and store oils and butters in a cool, dark place.
- Do not rely on one ingredient for a skin problem. If you have persistent redness, rashes or pain, see a health professional.
Familiar plant ingredients can be enjoyable and useful additions to a routine when they are used with sensible expectations.