What exfoliating does
The outermost layer of skin is made of dead cells that are naturally shed over time. Exfoliation helps this process along. Physical exfoliants, which are the ones most often made from natural materials, work by gentle rubbing that loosens and lifts surface cells. Many people notice that skin feels smoother and that products seem to spread more easily afterward.
That is generally the extent of the benefit. Exfoliation does not change skin permanently, does not shrink pores and does not cure blemishes. It is an occasional refresher, not a necessity, and plenty of people with healthy skin do very little of it.
Gentle natural exfoliants
The best natural exfoliants are fine, soft and rounded. Common examples include:
- Ground oats. Finely ground oatmeal is mild and cushioning, and it is a long-standing favorite in gentle cleansing products. It is often chosen for dry or easily irritated skin, though oats can still bother people with specific sensitivities, so a patch test is wise.
- Fine sugar. Sugar crystals dissolve in water as you rub, so they tend to become gentler the longer you massage. Very fine sugar is often used in body and lip products.
- Fine salt. Salt is sharper than sugar and can sting, particularly on dry or broken skin. It is generally kept for sturdy areas of the body rather than the face.
- Finely ground coffee or similar plant powders. These can be used, though texture varies and it is easy to choose a grind that is too coarse.
- Soft clays and powders. Some are used for a very mild polishing effect rather than scrubbing.
Particle size matters more than the ingredient itself. Fine, smooth particles are kinder than sharp or jagged ones, and the finer the material, the lower the risk of tiny scratches in the skin surface.
Materials to avoid
Some ingredients are popular in home recipes but can be too harsh. Crushed nut shells, fruit pits and coarse seeds often have jagged edges and may cause microscopic tears. Large salt or sugar grains, baking soda and rough grains can also be too abrasive, particularly on the face. Baking soda in particular is quite alkaline compared with skin, which is slightly acidic, so it is often avoided; the idea of skin pH explains why.
If you are unsure whether a material is gentle, rub a little between your fingers. If it feels scratchy there, it will feel worse on your face.
The risks of over-scrubbing
More exfoliation is not better. Overdoing it can strip away the protective outer layer of skin, known as the skin barrier, and leave skin tight, red, flaky or stinging. Signs you may be exfoliating too much include:
- Redness or a shiny, tight look
- Stinging when you apply products that normally feel fine
- Increased dryness or flaking
- New breakouts or rough patches
- Skin that feels raw or sensitive to touch
If this happens, stop exfoliating, simplify your routine to a mild cleanser and a plain moisturizer, and give your skin time to recover. If it persists, speak to a doctor or dermatologist.
How often to exfoliate
There is no single correct schedule, and it depends on your skin and the product. As a general principle, start less often than you think you need, perhaps once a week or less, and watch how skin responds before doing more. Many people with dry, sensitive or reactive skin are better off exfoliating rarely, or not at all. People with conditions such as eczema, rosacea or active acne should talk to a health professional before adding any scrub, since rubbing can aggravate these concerns.
Avoid exfoliating skin that is sunburned, broken, freshly shaved with irritation, or has cuts or active rashes. Exfoliated skin can also be more sensitive to the sun, so a good habit is to take sun protection seriously afterward.
Technique
How you exfoliate counts as much as what you use.
- Wet the skin and the product, so particles glide rather than drag.
- Use light pressure and small circles for no more than about a minute.
- Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, not hot.
- Pat dry and follow with a moisturizer.
The face deserves the softest approach, and the topic of face exfoliation covers it in more detail. Body skin is thicker and tolerates more, which is where body scrubs come in, while lips need their own very gentle treatment, as with a lip scrub. Exfoliating ingredients can also be added to a bar of soap, a choice discussed under exfoliating soap, though a bar left in the shower may feel too rough for some skin.
Homemade scrubs and storage
If you make your own scrubs, remember that anything containing water can spoil and grow bacteria. Oil-based scrubs with dry exfoliants are simpler, but oils can still go rancid and wet hands can introduce water. Use clean, dry utensils, scoop with a clean spoon rather than fingers, and make small batches.
A gentle natural exfoliant can be a pleasant, occasional addition to a routine. Choose soft particles, use a light hand, go slowly, and let your skin tell you when it has had enough.